How to choose reptile heating.
An essential component of a vivarium kit is the heating system. Virtually all reptiles you may want to keep are native to countries much hotter than our own (UK). The heating system, depending on its sophistication, will ensure that temperature is maintained within a certain zone or accurately to within several degrees. Reptiles are totally dependant on the temperature of their environment to maintain their metabolic rate and life function. This is because, unlike warm-blooded animals, they cannot produce internal heat. If the temperature drops to or below the level of their minimum tolerance they simply shut down. If this occurs for short periods and then the temperature increases they emerge un-scathed and increase in activity as if being operated by a dimmer switch. Those reptiles that are faced with a long temperature drop in their natural environments have evolved a technique called hibernation, where only the barest of life functions continue for this extended period of environmental in hospitability. Reptiles that have not evolved the ability to hibernate and which are subjected to prolonged cold will die. Detailed below are both primary and supplementary, vivarium heating systems.

Heat mats.
Heat mats are a thin carbon sheet through which, run heating element strips. The carbon dissipates the heat generated by the heating elements throughout and evenly over the mat. Heat mats are used, either to ensure night time temperatures do not fall below the acceptable minimum, once the primary heat source (Lamp or ceramic) is switched off, or as the primary heat source for some reptiles that have a broad temperature tolerance, or do not require a particularly high daytime temperature. They are very low wattage and most will only appear warm, not hot to the touch even when left on constantly. A heat mat should be about half the length of the vivarium (Not the whole length as the reptile would not be able to escape the heat if too hot) and attached to the outside back pane (Glass vivariums) towards one end. Tape the mat to the glass over the plastic flashing surrounding the black carbon area of the mat. Do not apply tape over the carbon area. Tape a ½ inch (12.5 mm) sheet of fireproof polystyrene over the mat so that it is sandwiched between the polystyrene and glass. If you do not want the mat to be visible you can first attach a picture scene background to the glass and tape the mat onto this. The heat will still transmit through the decorative background. For wooden vivariums tape the mat in the same way but onto the inside rear panel. Heat mats should not be positioned beneath a glass vivarium as heat build up may cause the glass to crack. Mats sited inside the vivarium should also not be placed on the base as they could be damaged or possibly be the cause of injury to the inhabitant. Heat mats are usually left on 24 hours a day and do not require attaching to a thermostat control. A thermometer is required so that correct target temperature range can be confirmed.

Conical Ceramic heating elements.
Ceramic heating elements are available in different heat outputs of 60, 100, 150 and 250 watts and are able to provide a particularly high daytime temperature. As they are thermostatically controlled, temperatures can be set and maintained to accurate parameters. They are essential for maintaining the stability required for reptile species such as Iguana’s and Water Dragons and the high range temperatures necessary for Bearded Dragons, and Euromastix. The element itself is white ceramic, shaped a little like a light bulb with a screw-fitting end. This screws into a porcelain lamp holder, which can be suspended inside large wooden vivariums by means of a hook attachment or secured directly to and through the lamp hole provided on the metal lid of most glass vivariums. Note that some lids on glass vivariums do not have a sufficiently large hole and this will, therefore, need to be opened out to the right diameter with a hole cutter. Vivarium lids supplied by Lifeforceonline are offered with an optional hole size to suite either bulbs and basking lights or ceramic elements. Electric cable is affixed to the lamp holder and runs to a suitable thermostat control. The cable used should be heat resistant as otherwise there is a risk that heat transmitted from the element can overheat the cable resulting in combustion. The thermostat needs to be matched to the wattage of the ceramic element and a number of different wattage options are available. Ceramic heating elements should be used to maintain the daytime temperature for around ten to twelve hours a day when they should be switched off, if a background heat mat is also used, or switched to a lower nightime setting if employed as the sole heat generating system. CAUTION, Ceramic elements become extremely hot and a painful burn can result if touched whilst they are on. When putting hands inside the vivarium or carrying out maintenance ensure that the element has been switched off for at least 15 minutes. Special guards are available to ensure that any reptile that may come into contact with the element is safe or to protect you from injury. Guards are always recommended for those vivariums that are cared for by the younger reptile keeper. A thermometer is required so that correct target temperatures can be confirmed.

Hot Rocks.
Hot rocks are made from ceramic and have a heating element, similar to a heat mat, contained within them. They are useful for providing additional heating to vivariums where the primary heat source is a heat mat or for large or other vivariums where maintaining temperature is a problem. The Reptile will sit on the hot rock to absorb heat, especially after being fed when more heat is required in order for it to adequately complete digestion. They are available in a range of sizes and wattages (Heat output).

Basking Lamps.
Basking lamps are similar to a spot lamp in appearance. They differ in that the construction of the lamp provides for a concentrated vertical beam of heat energy. Standard spot lamps allow dissipation of heat over a wider area. Basking lamps, therefore, will concentrate their heat energy into a narrow band and reptiles will sit underneath this beam to absorb heat. The lamps are available as a standard lamp or as an infrared version suitable for nocturnal species. These lamps commonly terminate in a screw thread and need to be fitted to a screw fitting lamp holder but unlike ceramic elements, this holder can be of a standard type and does not need to be heat resistant. They are available in a range of wattages. As a very basic guideline use 40 to 60 watt lamps for vivariums up to 30 inches (75cm), 100 watt for 36 inch (90cm) vivariums and the 150 and 200 watt versions for larger systems. Account should also be made for heat loss, i.e. cold and drafty rooms.

A thermometer is required so that correct target temperature range can be confirmed.

Heat Bulbs.
Heat bulbs operate in much the same way as standard bulbs in that heat from them radiates over a wide area. This type of bulb will influence the overall temperature of the vivarium rather than providing a localised heat source. They are especially useful for the smaller vivarium, for example those that house spiders, scorpions and smaller lizards, as they are available in wattages as low as 15 watts. The only ones worth purchasing are those that offer some light spectrum enhancement in addition to their heat output. These quality bulbs usually utilise rare earth Neodymium to produce a light output, which is beneficial to reptiles. Contrary to manufacturers advertising blurb, heat bulbs of this type are not full spectrum, which for the purpose of the reptile keeper is defined as a light source providing a UVB output of 5% or greater. They are, however, perfectly adequate for many reptiles, exotic insects, turtles and terrapins. The bulbs are of the screw thread type and need to be fitted to a basic screw fitting lamp holder. A thermometer is required so that correct target temperature range can be confirmed.

Heat Cables.
Heat cables are probably the least used heat source. Rena manufacture cables in a range of wattages. They are positioned underneath the substrate and can be used with or without a thermostat control unit. The cable system is best used for snakes and lizards that do not have a particularly high temperature requirement. They are also used in breeding and incubation vivaria.

A thermometer is required so that correct target temperature range can be confirmed.

Insulation.
Provision of insulation, especially to all glass vivariums can help to ensure a stable temperature and reduce running costs by conserving heat. Polystyrene is the most commonly use insulation material but ensure that fireproof polystyrene is used over heat mats to prevent the possibility of combustion. Decorative insulating backgrounds are also available.

Temperature Control.
Some heat source appliances need to be affixed to and controlled by, a thermostat device. Thermostats are a small box sited external to the vivarium, containing the control circuitry and a dial adjustment with which to set the temperature. A probe from the unit is positioned inside the vivarium to read the temperature. A thermostatically controlled system provides the most precise method of ensuring perfect temperature settings. They are available in capacities to support heat appliances of various wattages and some have a greater degree of operative sophistication including digital reading, daytime / nighttime settings and pulse proportional operation. Algarde manufacture a very reliable range, which cover most requirements.

Temperature Monitoring.
A thermometer is absolutely essential for any vivarium to make sure that temperatures are maintained within the correct parameters. Many types are available including stick on liquid crystal strips, disc shaped spring steel types and accurate battery operated digital display versions. For most reptiles, the most basic types are perfectly adequate.

As the heating system is the heart of the artificial environment, which is the vivarium, great care must be taken to choose exactly the right one and a large proportion of the overall budget should be allocated to this essential part of the kit. Lifeforceonline supply components as separates and complete vivarium systems configured to the needs of specific groups of reptiles and exotic insects.