Reptile Foods. How to choose reptile foods.

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Turtle & Terrapin Foods

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This information sheet has been designed to help you make an informed choice.

How to choose reptile foods.
After making sure that you have provided the best possible environment for your chosen reptile, the next most important consideration is the type of food with which to feed it. Like all living creatures, reptiles need a balanced diet containing all the essential vitamins, nutrients and building blocks for life. Some reptiles have evolved to require a highly specialised diet whilst others are adaptable opportunists being able to extract their nutritional requirements from a wide variety of foodstuff. You should find out exactly what is the necessary feeding regime, for the reptile you would like to keep, well before the purchase of any equipment or the animal itself. This is important not only to make sure you are able to obtain a regular supply of the appropriate foodstuff but also that you can cope with handling the food yourself. Although proprietary manufactured foods are becoming increasingly available, many types of reptiles need to be fed live insects or frozen rodents and some people would not feel comfortable with the prospect of handling or storing these in the home.

Types of live foods.
There is a wide range of live foods available and as these are mass-produced specifically for this market, the cost of them is very reasonable. Live foods are available by post from Lifeforceonline. The most popular of these are detailed below.

Brown Crickets. Brown Crickets are available in packs. The number of insects in a pack will vary depending on the size of the cricket. They are also available in graded sizes so that any reptile from hatchling to adult can be fed crickets of a size they can handle. Brown crickets are fairly soft bodied and can, therefore be easily consumed by most insectivores. In order to keep the crickets in tip top condition, it is best to transfer them from the plastic packaging in which they are purchased, to another container. The plastic all-purpose containers with ventilated lids, “Small Pals Pens” by Hagen are ideal for this purpose. If keeping very small crickets, stretch a piece of Muslin or similar material over the top of the container and trap in place with the lid. This will prevent escapes. Fill the container about ½ to 2/3 full with cut up egg trays or cartons to provide a habitable labyrinth. The structure of the egg cartons allows crickets to avoid others as larger ones cannibalise those that are smaller or vulnerable after shedding their skin. For moisture place a slice of soft fruit or potato onto a shallow dish (Small plant pot trays are ideal for this purpose). Regularly replace with fresh. Suitable food is bran or porridge oats. A manufactured food, “Calcium Plus” is available and as this is nutritionally balanced it is highly recommended. Place foodstuff into a separate tray than that provided for moisture. The container should be kept in a location, which is dark or has subdued light and maintained at a temperature of 18 to 22C (64-72 Fahrenheit).

Black Crickets. All details are as for “Brown Crickets” above. Black crickets have harder shells than their brown cousins and so may not be suitable for all reptiles. They are also even more cannibalistic. One thing that some find annoying is the cricket song, produced as they rub their rear legs against their carapace. Black crickets are, without doubt, the Pavarotti’s of the insect world!!

Locusts. Locusts (As in “Plague of”) are available as Hoppers, which are the juvenile form and adults. They are mostly suitable for medium to large reptiles as well as scorpions and tarantulas. Again, they are best kept in a container other than that in which they are purchased. Choose one as large as possible and stand vertical sheets of cardboard or egg crates inside it for the locusts to cling to. Maintaining the correct temperature of 24 to 30C (76-84 Fahrenheit) may require the addition of a bulb or heat mat, as this is likely to be higher than an average room temperature, especially in the winter months. They can be fed on long grass or soft outer cabbage leaves. Calcium Plus, bran or porridge oats should also be offered. Wash any green foodstuff thoroughly to remove any trace of contaminant or insecticide. Locusts obtain all their moisture requirements from their food.

Mealworms. Mealworms are available as standard or giant size. A special mealworm storage box is available but if this is not used then transfer them to a large, shallow plastic container (Cat litter trays are ideal). Add a layer of bran to a depth of between 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5cm). Add small amounts of soft fruit or potato peelings onto the surface of the bran layer. It is important to clean out the tray regularly to avoid compaction of the bran, which could lead to suffocation and pest infestation such as mites. Air circulation is required around the tray so never cover it with something that restricts this. Fine mesh netting can be used as a cover if you think the cat may object to this particular use for his litter tray and seeks to re-claim it for its usual purpose. Mealworms are best kept at temperatures of between 8 to 10C (47-50 Fahrenheit) but note that temperatures below 5C (XX Fahrenheit) will kill them. At temperatures consistently much higher their life cycle will be accelerated and they will pupate. From pupation they emerge as black beetles and these too can be fed to some reptiles. There is a small risk of mealworms causing internal damage to some reptiles. If unsure and to avoid this, pierce the mealworms skin two or three times with a sharp pin or needle, which will allow the digestive juices present in the reptiles stomach easy entry to commence their work of digestion.

Wax worms. These maggot like grubs are the larval, pre-pupation stage of a small moth and although quite temperature tolerant, will pupate quicker at higher temperatures. At temperatures of 12 to 18C (54-64 Fahrenheit) they should last a couple of weeks. The grubs have a high food value and should, therefore, be fed sparingly to reptiles or as a treat. They are particularly good for poor eaters, sick or recovering animals. They are supplied in smaller quantities than most live foods so it is not usually necessary to transfer them to another container or feed them as they tend to be used up in a short space of time.

Tips on feeding live foods.
One or two methods of delivering or treating live foods can be of additional benefit to the reptile.

Gut-loading is a term used when live food is fed on particularly nourishing foodstuff, usually vitamin enriched. The good quality proprietary foods such as Calcium Plus and Progrub effectively turn live food into supplement delivery systems. Feeding these to live feed insects is, therefore, highly recommended.

Dusting is another method of delivering a supplement to a reptile. For best results, place the insects in an appropriately sized freezer bag. Add a pinch of the supplement, Lifeforceonline recommend Nutrobal, a good calcium/vitamin supplement, and shake gently until the insects are covered. When applying this to crickets, place the bag in the fridge after dusting for a few minutes to slow the crickets down otherwise they will wipe off the powder. Dusting should be carried out every one to two weeks, depending on the particular reptiles requirements and can help prevent metabolic bone disease. Never dust more frequently than this as overdose and possible side effects may result. If your reptile is under vetinary care always check before using any supplement.

Manufactured foods.
An increasingly large choice of manufactured foods aimed at specific reptile species, is becoming increasingly available. Although some do claim to be complete, i.e. containing all nutritional elements required for a balanced diet, we recommend that these be used together with and not exclusive to, natural foodstuff. Manufacturers Zoomed, Hagen (Nutrafin), T-Rex, Tetra and King British all supply dry food for Turtles and Terrapins and some additionally for Tortoises, Bearded Dragons, Iguana’s, Monitors and Leopard Gecko’s.

Tips on feeding manufactured foods.
Some reptiles, especially if not introduced to them at an early stage, may not recognise manufactured foods as a palatable addition to their diet. In order to ensure they accept them, mix the dry food together with chopped up food, which forms part of their regular diet. They will be unable to separate the two and so eat both. Lightly mist spraying the dried food prior to feeding can also help, this works particularly well with Tortoise food. Dried food can also be dosed with liquid vitamin supplements, which it will easily absorb. Always follow manufacturers instructions regarding dosing.

Frozen foods.
A variety of frozen foods are available which include Mice, Rats, Chicks and even Rabbits. These food items form the diet of snakes and larger lizards. Packet frozen foods are now available for Monitors, Gecko’s and Snakes. These should all be stored in a freezer, preferably in a plastic container separating them from human foodstuff. Always de-frost thoroughly before use and in the case of prepared packet foods, follow the manufacturers instructions. Refer to your freezer unit instructions for recommended maximum storage periods (i.e. those for storage of human foods). Any frozen foods not eaten within six hours should be removed and discarded, as they will quickly deteriorate in the high temperature environment of the typical vivarium.

Tips on feeding frozen foods.
Whilst definitely preferable to feeding live foods, frozen foods can become deficient in some vitamins, especially if stored for long periods so occasional addition of a liquid or powder supplement is recommended. The freezing process can also reduce the natural odour of the food animal with the consequence that a snake or lizard will not eat them when offered. Liquid drops such as “Mouse Maker” can be used to re-scent the foods. The same liquid drops can also be used on “Snake Steak Sausages” which are an alternative to feeding frozen mice. Make sure that you wash your hands thoroughly after handling frozen foods or scent enhancing chemicals, not only from the hygiene point of view, but also so that your pet does not mistake your fingers for a tasty snack.

As with us, a varied diet keeps reptiles healthy and interested and will reduce the likelihood of them going off their food with potential fatal consequences. If reptiles go off their food for long periods expert advice should be sought.