How To Choose Aquarium Treatments & Tests.
Whether for maintenance reasons, fish illness, plant propagation or simply out of interest, it will, from time to time be necessary or desirable to use aquarium treatments or tests. There are a bewildering number of brands and products available, some are designed for very specialist or emergency use and some are absolutely essential to the well-being of the enclosed aquarium environment. The products described below are the most useful of all these products and ones that you should include in your maintenance kit and medicine cabinet.

Water Treatments – Aids to Maintenance.
Perhaps the most widely used and one of the most important water treatments is the Water Conditioner. The principle use of a water conditioner is for the removal of Chlorine from tap water prior to a partial water change. A modern water conditioner, however, will do much more besides. It will buffer the Ph, prevent metallic Ions (Of copper, zinc and aluminium, added to the water as part of the water companies own treatment process) from affecting the fish and encourage the fish to produce more of the mucous coating that is their first barrier of defense against parasites and disease causing organisms. A water conditioner can be used when adding new livestock to the aquarium and to help fish recover after they have been treated.

The second most widely used but just as important additive or treatment is the Biological Conditioner. A biological conditioner such as Cycle by Hagen is a complex blend of gram positive nitrifying bacteria and other micro organisms in a suspended solution. It can be used to seed a new aquarium system so that the filter matures much more quickly than left to do so naturally. This will ensure minimum or even zero livestock loss during the first few weeks of an aquariums life. This process of maturation is known as the “Nitrite cycle”. It can also be used on an on-going basis after the system is mature, to boost the “Good” bacteria levels in the aquarium so maximising the biological process of the filter system. Some companies have managed to produce a blend of water conditioner and biological conditioner all in one such as Interpets Bioactive Tapsafe.

Even with meticulous and regular maintenance there is inevitably a build up of waste mulm or sludge. Static surfaces such as rockwork, decoration, equipment and the interior glass surfaces become coated with film and slime and some sludge may escape the gravel cleaner. A Waste Controller is a blend of micro organisms that specifically target Organic waste, consuming and eliminating it so maintaining a cleaner, healthier aquarium. A waste controller should also be used, in conjunction with an improved and regular maintenance regime to restore a neglected aquarium back to health. This is preferable and safer for the fish than stripping down a system and starting again.

Other treatments are available to reduce bacterial blooms (Milky white appearance to the water usually in new tank set ups or as a result of over feeding), Eliminate water cloudiness caused by suspended particulate material or free swimming algal blooms and reduce Phosphates and Nitrates that build up in all aquariums and contribute to excess algae growth. Plant feeds are another popular treatment (See “How to choose aquarium plants”).

Water Treatments – Fish Ailments.
Despite our best efforts, fish may on occasion succumb to one of the common ailments, diseases or parasite attack. Luckily, most are easily dealt with and the key is to treat as soon as possible as water borne disease-causing organisms can multiply at a rapid rate. Fish are most likely to be effected when adding new stock or if something drastic effects the delicate balance of the aquarium system, such as temperature drop due to a failed heater, sudden Ph shifts, Ammonia peaks or a general deterioration in the water quality.

When introducing new stock it is advisable to add a “Quarantine” treatment. A quarantine treatment is a broad based chemical that targets fungal and parasitic organisms and bacteria and seeks to eliminate these before they multiply and become a real problem. Liquisil by Interpet and Protozin and Myaxazin by Waterlife Research are useful when new fish are added or when there is an occurrence such as the ones described above. Quarantine treatments should not be used in immature new tank set-ups.

It is also a good idea to establish a medicine cabinet specifically to address any disease outbreak. The stockpile should include treatments that are specifically targeted at the main fish diseases. These are Whitespot (Pin head white spots), Fungus (Cotton wool like tufts or growths) and bacterial attack (Ragged fins, red blotches or sores). Most major manufacturers have a range to tackle these common fish ailments. Pay attention to the shelf life of the product and discard following manufacturers instructions. If there is no shelf life indication then discard after one year from purchase as the active ingredients may have deteriorated to the point where they are not effective. Always remove activated carbon and other absorptive filter medium from filters when treating, as they will also absorb the treatments.

Treatments also exist to combat less common diseases such as hole in the head, bacterial swim bladder disorder, ulceration and others but it is better to obtain these once an accurate diagnosis has been made.

Water Tests.
As with treatments, there are tests that provide useful indicators as to the health of the aquatic environment and are, therefore, recommended for regular use. There are also other tests that are less useful to the average aquarist but may be required if a particular species of fish or plant is in need of more specialized environmental conditions.

A Ph test kit measures the acidity or alkalinity of the water. Most fish are very tolerant of gradual Ph changes but checks need to be made to make sure that the Ph is not shifting to any extreme. Most tropical community fish are happiest in the range 6.7 to 7.4 (7.0 being neutral), coldwater fish in the range 7.0 to 7.9 and marine fish 8.0 to 8.3. These are very general values and your system may have a more specific target Ph target, for example Discus fish prefer an acid 6.5 and a tropical community aquarium containing predominantly Tetra’s and Corydoras would be best maintained at 6.5 to 6.9. To obtain an accurate reading take three tests, one in the morning, midday and night and average out the results, as the Ph fluctuates relative to the Carbon Dioxide levels in the water which vary over the 24 hour daytime / nighttime cycle. The water hardness can also influence the Ph so in order to obtain the complete picture it is a good idea to test hardness levels. Adding powder or liquid buffering agents can alter adverse Ph conditions. A Ph test should be carried out every four weeks to monitor levels. Use every day when actively in the process of altering Ph.

An efficient filter will break down the more toxic components of fish waste, Ammonia and Nitrite into Nitrate. Nitrates gradually build up in the system and even with regular partial water changes will reach un-desirable levels. A Nitrate (No3) test kit will identify the extent of the Nitrate build up so that remedial action can be taken. Ideally a Nitrate reading of Zero should be the target but this is very difficult to achieve in Tropical and Coldwater systems. Readings above 50 ppm (Parts per million) need urgent attention and it is considered that a reading of 20 ppm or under is acceptable. Failure to address high Nitrate readings will promote the growth of unsightly algae leading to more maintenance. More importantly it is believed that High Nitrate values can suppress the immune system of fish leaving them more susceptible to disease, reduce growth rates and suppress their colour. A yellowing to the water may also be evident. Discus and Marine systems need lower Nitrate levels maintaining, as the inhabitants are more sensitive. Nitrates can be removed and reduced by using Ion exchange resins and absorptive filter mediums. A Nitrate test should be carried out every four weeks to monitor levels. Use every day when in the process of actively reducing Nitrates.

The two tests above are the most useful to the average fish keeper but other tests can provide supplementary information and give a more complete picture of exactly what is happening within what is a fairly complex environment.

As already mentioned, water hardness can influence Ph and a change in hardness levels can, together with a shift in Ph influence spawning and other behavior. Hardness is usually measured in two ways, temporary hardness (KH) and general or total hardness (GH or dH on the widely used German scale). Most test kits include the means to establish both these values. As for altering Ph, additives are available to change the hardness values. Test the hardness values when considering alteration to Ph value or in order to ensure correct conditions for specific fish or invertebrate species.

More obscure tests such as those for Silica, Calcium, Oxygen, residual Ozone, redox potential and other fine system parameters are also available if a particular system warrants the monitoring of these items.

Methods of Testing.
All of the tests above can be made with kits that either use dry tablets or liquid as the reagent to combine with the aquarium water to be tested. Some of them can be carried out with simple dip strips. Dry tab tests have the longest shelf life, as the reagent is very stable and foiled wrapped to retain its integrity. It is necessary to crush the tablet inside a small tube or vial containing the sample of water to be tested. After shaking for a specified time the sample will have changed colour and by comparing this with a colour chart a reading can be made. The method for use of liquid reagents is exactly the same, except of course that a liquid is added to the tube or vial rather than a tablet. Liquid test kits are significantly cheaper than tablet test kits but have a much shorter shelf life. Dip strips have a reagent bonded to a paper or plastic strip and are dipped directly into the aquarium. The strip may have up to five different tests on the one strip. This type of test is the cheapest type available. The most sophisticated and accurate tests are carried out using electronic measuring equipment but at prices from around £40.00 to over £100.00 for a test instrument, these are rarely used by anyone but the most advanced or professional aquarist.