Aquarium Plants. How to choose aquarium plants.

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This information sheet has been designed to help you make an informed choice.

How To Choose Aquarium Plants.
Most of us enter the aquarium hobby because of a fascination with fish, interest stimulated by these interesting, colourful and sometimes very alien inhabitants of the world of water. An aquarium system, as well as providing a healthy environment for our chosen fish can also be a stunning display and a living picture if care is taken to decorate and aquascape it. Fundamental to aquascaping is selection of a variety of water plants which, with a little care can create an underwater garden that as well as looking beautiful in its own right, will be a foil against which to show off the aquarium fish to even greater advantage.

Types Of Aquarium Plants.
There are over one hundred and fifty varieties of live plants offered for sale to the aquarist. Some of these are of interest only to advanced hobbyists and require a great deal of time and special equipment to propagate successfully. Many, however, are relatively easy to achieve success with by picking the right type for your system and by following a few simple care rules. Some plants are suitable only for tropical aquarium systems and others for un-heated set ups. A few varieties are equally at home in both types of system as they are tolerant of a broad temperature range. There are also available for sale a few plants that will tolerate submersion for a number of weeks but are not truly aquatic and will, therefore die off after a period.

Live aquarium plants are available either as bunched cuttings weighted and bound by a lead strip or potted in a small plastic pot containing a mineral wool rooting medium.

Plants for the Marine aquarium are available from specialist outlets. Some tropical plants will also adapt to Brackish water.

Plants For Coldwater Aquariums.
The common goldfish and its fancy cousins such as Orandas, Moors, Shubunkins and others all enjoy vegetable material as part of their diet and will happily munch away on that recently added prize potted specimen. For this reason it is recommended that fast growing and tougher leafed varieties are chosen as bunched or potted specimens. Recommended varieties are Bacopa Monnieri, Cardamine Lyrata, Ceratopterus Cornuta, Egeria Densa, Gymnocoronis Spilanthoides, Hydrocotyle leucocephala, Hygrophila Corymbosa, Hygrophila Difformis, Hygrophila Polysperma, Ludwigia Repens, Microsorum Pteropus, Sagittaria Subulata, Vallisneria Spiralis and Vallisneria Americanis. This list is not by any means exhaustive and you may wish to experiment with other varieties but from the authors experience they are a fairly safe bet and should not be problematical.

Plants For Tropical aquariums.
The Tropical Aquarium presents the aquarist with a perfect opportunity to be truly creative and develop a lush, verdant underwater garden, a perfect backdrop for the gently gliding, glistening, shoals of aquarium fish. There is a huge choice available but again, a number of old favorites will provide maximum impact with minimum fuss. These are Anubius(All varieties), Aponogeton Crispus, Ceratopterus Cornuta, Crinum Natans and C. Thaianum, Cryptocoryne (Most varieties), Echinodorus Bleheri, E. Macrophylus, E. Martii, E. Osiris, E. Ozelot, E. Rose and E. Rubin, Gymnocorinis Spilanthoides, Hygrophila Corymbosa “Angustifolia”, “Siamensis” and “Stricta”, H. Difformis, H. Polysperma, Ludwigia Arcuata, L. Repens, Microsorum (All varieties), Shinnersia Rivularis and Vallisneria (All varieties)

Plants For The Brackish Aquarium.
The salt content of Brackish water systems is hard on most plant varieties but some will tolerate these conditions allowing a degree of soft aquascaping. Suitable varieties would be Microsorum (All varieties), Anubias (All varieties), Egeria Densa, Vallisneria (All varieties) and several varieties of Hygrophila.

Display Plants.
If a dramatic and instant display is required then larger, more mature specimens can be purchased. Plants are also available grown onto Bogwood and Lava rock. Larger aquariums also benefit from adding these more established options.

Choosing The Plants For Your Aquarium.
It is important to choose a variety of plants that will both compliment and offer a contrast to each other. Plant larger specimens to the rear behind those of a medium growth habit and choose lower growing ones to carpet the foreground and underpin decorative rockwork and Bogwoods. Provide contrast by introducing plants of differing leaf colour, form and texture. It is useful to draw a view of your aquarium as if looking down from the top and then planning the positioning of the plants prior to purchase. In order to prevent algae from becoming established it is important to carry out a large proportion of the overall planting at an early stage. It is also important to plant out quite densely if a faithful reproduction of the natural system is to be achieved. Avoid planting of single specimens, as plants always look better when planted in groups of the same type (Other than for dramatic centre piece plants such as Amazon Swords).

Planting Aquarium plants.
Bunched plants are supplied as plantlets or stems bound together with a lead weight. Often the root system on these plants will not be well developed and it will be necessary to plant out whilst retaining the weight. To do this grasp the bottom section of the plant and with thumb and forefinger of the same hand, excavate a little of the substrate. Place the weighted portion in the excavation and whilst holding in place, backfill to cover just over the weight. The weight should not adversely affect the water quality as an oxide layer forms preventing dissipation into the water of any pollutive element.

Potted plants are supplied with the plant specimen rooted into mineral wool inside a slatted plastic pot. To plant, cut off the pot or gently tap out the mineral wool bound root portion if root growth allows. Gently tease off the mineral wool from the roots (If some mineral wool remains this will not have any adverse or detrimental effects) and then plant out as above. Spread the roots out to prevent “Bunching” which can cause root rot and trim any excessively long roots to size.

Caring For and Maintaining Aquarium Plants.
Just as our gardens at home need regular attention if they are not to revert to an impassable and unsightly tangle of overgrown foliage, then so too does the underwater garden in the aquarium. Remove any tatty, yellowed or obviously dead leaves and net them out. Use a pair of small stainless steel scissors for this purpose and to carry out other pruning. Thin out faster growing plants before they become a tangled mess and before they can smother other slower growing varieties. Large and Broad leaved plants can provide an ideal surface for the growth of some undesirable algae’s and this can be prevented to some degree by regularly rubbing the leaf between thumb and forefinger. Do this very gently so as not to crush the delicate leaf structure. Some plants such as Elodea, Hygrophila sp. And Bacopa sp. will lose their leaves from the lower stem portion as they grow upwards and should be trimmed from the bottom and re-weighted. Plants such as Vallisneria will propagate themselves in a Strawberry plant like fashion by sending out runners from which little plantlets will spring. Once these baby plants have rooted the umbilical stem can be cut and the new plants re-planted elsewhere. A little research into the growing habits of the plants you have chosen will help to get the best out of them and keep them looking good.

Aids To Plant Growth.
Most of the aquarium plant varieties detailed above will grow easily in most water conditions. If the aquarist has limited success, wants to experiment with more difficult varieties or is looking for particularly lush and dense planting, then there are several ways to enhance plant growth.

Lighting. Lighting is vital to the well being of all plants and it is through a process called Photosynthesis that plants are able to produce some of the food they need for growth. Photosynthesis occurs as a green pigment in the plants cells called Chlorophyll, combines under the influence of light with water and Carbon Dioxide to produce simple sugars and then Starch. This chemical reaction also produces Oxygen and fast growing plants such as Elodea are often called “Oxygenators”, as so much Oxygen is produced this is visible as a stream of bubbles rising from the plants cellular pores or stomata. The type and duration of lighting employed can, therefore, greatly influence this process.

Most modern systems are fitted with florescent tube lighting systems and it is important to check that the tube has a light output that will be beneficial to plant growth. This is easily checked by reading manufacturers advertising material on the tube packet or on supplementary leaflets supplied. Information is also given on this website. If you are unsure about existing tubes suitability then it is better to replace it rather than waste money on plants that will not thrive. Lighting duration should be between 8 to 12 hours a day and some experimentation may be required to set just the right duration for your system. Avoid natural light as much as possible so that you are able to control the influence of light by setting the exact amount required. Excessive light will encourage the growth of unsightly algae that can also stifle and kill the plants. The output of light from a florescent tube alters the longer it is used so that, after a period the original spectrum produced is no longer evident and again, this can alter growth and the plant / algae balance. To avoid adverse consequences replace the tube at least every 12 months. As part of the regular aquarium maintenance, wipe the tubes with damp kitchen paper, cloth or sponge every four weeks to remove deposits that will reduce light output. Always ensure tubes are isolated from the mains electrical supply prior to carrying out any cleaning. Other light systems are available (See Aquarium Lighting) and each of these may require differing attention and maintenance in order to ensure optimum plant growth.

Liquid Plant Foods. The enclosed system of an aquarium can become denuded of various trace elements and essential nutrients that the plants need for successful growth, as those plants present use them up. Regular partial water changes will replace some of these but in a well-planted system it will be necessary to redress the balance by adding a proprietary aquarium plant food. Choose a supplement that contains chelated copper (Yellow leaves is often an indication of Iron shortage) and it is also advisable to check Iron levels with an Iron test kit to maintain optimum levels. Always follow manufacturers instructions to the letter for the product you have chosen.

Tablet Plant Foods. Aquarium plants take in the components of a liquid feed through both the leaves and the root system. Some very large plant varieties and those with extremely dense growth will also benefit from the addition of feed tablets. These are positioned directly at the root area by pushing them into the gravel amongst the root system.

Nutrient Gravels. Nutrient gravels differ from Pea gravels, as they are usually clay based and lighter than the hard and relatively inert materials that comprise pea gravels. Additionally they are infused with trace elements that slow release to feed plants over an extended period. The porous structure of these gravels also means that plants can often root into the gravel grains. Usually slightly more expensive than other gravels they are nonetheless a popular choice and an easy way to promote better growth. Some have a tendency to drop the Ph (Make the water more acidic), so monthly checks with a Ph test kit are a good idea to monitor conditions in order that remedial action may be taken if necessary.

Carbon Dioxide (Co2) Addition. Adding Co2 to an aquarium system is a little like lighting the blue touch paper on a firework. Shortly afterwards it explodes in a riotous display and this is exactly what happens in the planted aquarium. Addition of Carbon Dioxide will also tend to drop the Ph so test as above and it is important to ensure the aquarium is very well planted so that imbalances do not occur. The optimum levels of Co2 are between 5 to 15 ppm (Parts per million) and the levels in your aquarium can be determined with a co2 test kit. Levels in excess of 20 ppm can start to adversely effect aquarium fish. There are various ways to introduce Carbon Dioxide and these are as follows.

Gas Bottle System. Carbon dioxide is contained in a metal bottle or cylinder and introduced to the aquarium by means of a pipe and valve regulator. Other control systems are available to monitor the delivery of Co2 and the levels in the system can, therefore, be very accurately controlled. This type of system is put together from high quality, precision components and comes with a price tag to match from around £150.00 to well over £200.00.

Electrolytic System. This system delivers Co2 by passing an electric current through a carbon block held in the aquarium by a stainless steel holder. The current passing through the carbon block releases carbon dioxide from the structure of the carbon directly into the water. Increasing the electric current passing through the block will increase Co2 output and visa versa. Control of the current is effected by means of a control box and accurate dosage levels can be achieved when this is used in conjunction with a Co2 test kit. An electrolytic system is easier to fit than a gas bottle system and will cost from £125.00 to £150.00.

Fermentation Process. This is probably regarded as an introduction to Carbon Dioxide in the aquarium but can be a very effective means of adding Co2 for a very low cost outlay when compared to the other systems available. It works by adding sugar and water to a yeast based culture all contained in a soup can sized container. The resulting reaction produces ample Co2, which is delivered via a pipe to a ladder like attachment inside the aquarium. At under £20.00 per unit for an aquarium up to 20 gallons (90 Litres, larger aquariums will require more than one unit), this is a very affordable way of improving plant growth. Should be used in conjunction with a Co2 test kit.

Other Types of Plant.
Whilst most people would prefer the addition of live plants, there are available many ranges of artificial plastic and silk plants. In recent years the quality and accuracy of these when compared to their natural counterparts has dramatically improved and an impressive looking display can be achieved with their use.